History of Bharatanatyam Costume Design – Evolution & Tradition

The Bharatanatyam costume is not just clothing — it is a living tradition that has evolved over centuries. From ancient temple sculptures to modern Arangetram stages, the costume tells the story of the dance itself. Here is a complete guide to the history and evolution of Bharatanatyam costume design.

Ancient Origins — Temple Dance Tradition (Before 1000 CE)

• Bharatanatyam originated as Sadir — a sacred temple dance performed by Devadasis
• Early costumes were simple draped sarees in the traditional Tamil style
• Jewellery was made of real gold and precious stones
• Costumes were inspired by sculptures in temples like Chidambaram and Thanjavur
• The iconic fan/pleats style was not yet developed — sarees were draped naturally

Medieval Period — Thanjavur Court (1000–1800 CE)

• Under the patronage of Thanjavur kings, the dance became more refined
• The Thanjavur Quartet (Chinnaiah, Ponnaiah, Sivanandam, Vadivelu) standardised the dance form in the early 1800s
• Costumes became more elaborate with structured stitching
• Gold zari borders became a signature element
• The centre fan (pleats) began to take its modern form

Colonial Period — Decline and Revival (1800–1930)

• British colonial rule led to the decline of temple dance traditions
• Devadasi system was abolished — the dance moved out of temples
• Costumes became simpler and less ornate during this period
• The dance was considered controversial and nearly disappeared

Modern Revival — Rukmini Devi Arundale (1930s)

• Rukmini Devi Arundale is credited with reviving and reforming Bharatanatyam
• She founded Kalakshetra in Chennai in 1936
• She redesigned the costume completely — creating the structured stitched costume we know today:
  • Fitted blouse (instead of draped saree top)
  • Stitched pant with drawstring
  • Separate centre fan with pleats
  • Small round fans on the sides
  • Pallu draped over the shoulder
• She introduced Kanjivaram silk as the standard fabric
• This Kalakshetra style became the global standard for Bharatanatyam costumes

Post-Independence Era (1950s–1990s)

• Bharatanatyam spread across India and internationally
• Costume colours became more varied — moving beyond traditional red and green
• Art silk and China silk became popular as affordable alternatives to pure silk
• Regional variations developed — Kerala, Andhra, and Karnataka styles emerged
• Jewellery shifted from real gold to gold-plated temple jewellery

Contemporary Era (2000s–Present)

• Modern costumes retain the Kalakshetra structure but with creative colour combinations
• New fabrics like georgette and crepe are used for contemporary fusion performances
• Stone work, mirror work, and modern embroidery are added to traditional designs
• International dancers have introduced subtle variations while maintaining the core structure
• Ready-made stitched costumes have made Bharatanatyam accessible to students worldwide

Key Elements That Have Remained Unchanged

• The centre fan (pleats) — symbol of the dance form
• Gold zari border — representing tradition and grandeur
• Temple jewellery — connecting to the sacred origins
• Bare feet — honouring the earth and the rhythm of footwork
• The bun with flowers — representing femininity and grace

Explore our collection of traditional and modern Bharatanatyam costumes at Shiva Sai Collections.